Saturday, July 23, 2011

You are wonderful.

There are many people we want to thank in connection with this trip.
At the moment we are passing followers' comments on to Greg when he phones. These are most encouraging as he soldiers on through the heat wondering where he'll find a spot to camp overnight, or whether he'll be able to replenish supplies of much-needed  food and water. Often these problems are solved by kind strangers Greg happens to meet. If you are one of these people, Greg wants you to know that your friendly words and/or offers of cold drinks etc are very much appreciated. Most recent thanks goes to Rodney who spent a little time with Greg, and later brought him a bag of cold fruit.

With approximately 200 miles still to paddle, Greg wants you all to know that things like this are what makes the journey so enjoyable.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

What next?

Greg is approaching the final stage of his journey,with Louisiana on both sides of the river . He will be in Baton Rouge tonight, and has paddled 2000 miles. He now has 300 miles to go - in New Zealand terms this is the distance from our local boat ramp in Takapuna to Cape Reinga.
Recently we received an email from a fellow kayaker who told us he and his friends had some initial doubts as to Greg's chances of completing the trip down the river. Little did they know! A short time later they heard of "an older gentleman with a strange accent and a blue kayak" who was about a week ahead of them on the river. They met again just before Natchez as Greg has taken a number of rest days around St Louis. Although Greg has continued to paddle solo, these new friends left a message for him in the first bar beside the river in Natchez, so he was able to phone them and spend a night with them at a family member's house. This gave Greg a much-needed opportunity to resupply before returning to the river where he spent the next night sleeping on gravel! Apparently a life-jacket makes a very good mattress when all else fails.
Local people have continued to show great kindness , offering water and sometimes food or Coca cola.
At Angola Prison the ferry operator gave Greg three bottles of coke and a packet of chocolate biscuits.
Greg continues to keep in touch by phone. When asked last night what he's looking forward to once he gets off the river, Greg replied he's looking forward to getting cool.

Monday, July 18, 2011

Natchez tomorrow

Tonight Greg is a little south of Vicksburg, Mississippi.
He is surviving the heat and lack of grocery stores by a combination of dining at all you can eat casino restaurants and random acts of kindness by passing boaties. Cold drinks and refreshments have been offered several times today, and have been very gratefully received.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Company

This afternoon with the temperature over 100 degrees ,Greg was resting on a sandbank when he heard someone call his name. There were three kayakers he'd last seen at Palisade. They are sharing a camping spot tonight after consuming an all you can eat buffet at a casino in Tunica, Mississippi.
Greg is feeling good . He has now paddled 1600 miles, and has 700 to go.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

The Days Ahead

The towns on the rest of the river now become more than a day's paddle apart,so finding somewhere to stop along the way may become more difficult. With the river so high there are not as many exposed sand bars although I was relieved to see there have still been a few. The other thing to look for on the charts is boat ramps but often they don't have any grass, just gravel. Finally, the many grain silos along the way offer possibilities but they are often protected by rock walls so there is nowhere to land. I had my worst night yet at Cape Girardeau recently. I missed the gap in the flood wall the signified the entrance to the boat harbour I was looking for. The town was completely surrounded by concrete flood walls. I came across what was a small flooded road that ran down to the river with two grain silos on what looked to be flat grassy land. On closer inspection it was basically gravel and  concrete. There was a two storey office building with stairs leading to an upstairs wooden deck. I decided the deck would do and that I would just sleep out in the open air. I didn't sleep a wink. First there was the heat,then the mosquitoes,then the noise of frogs and other critters in the surrounding flood waters,passing barge tows and the occasional train. The wooden deck was the least of it (as some of you know I don't use an air mattress or thermarest-Charlie can vouch that I have even been known to use a log of wood for my pillow). Needless to say I slept well the next night even if the high grass concealed great ruts in the ground when it was flattend by my lying on it

More Kindness of Strangers

When I left Cape Girardeau for New Madrid I stopped at two small towns along the way.Unfortunately they were both set a mile or more from the river. At the first there were two women on the boat ramp. When I asked if there was any water to be had they immediately offered to drive me to a restaurant in town to get some. At the next town I was in need of a toilet (I prefer not to dig a hole in the bushes with all the snakes and poison ivy) There was a Coast Guard boat moored and I asked and was declined permission to land next to it and ask if I could use their facilities. I was told to land the other side of a fence 50 metres away. I climbed to the top of the flood wall to be faced with a church, a closed pizza shop, a cottge with a car out front. The Coastguard Building. As the gate was wide open and no signs prohibiting entry, I went in and entered the building. I was expecting some sort of office building but it turned out to be a dorm with bunk rooms, a gym,kitchen and importantly restrooms. As there was no -one to ask I simply took advantage of the facilities. The was also a shower and washing machine and I probably could have used both without anyone being the wiser. I walked out unchallenged and knocked on the door of the cottage to find in which direction the town lay and how far away it was. It was answered by an 82 year old man who told me it was over a mile away and offered to take me there,which I accepted. We went to the grocery store for a few provisions and he drove me back to my boat. When I finally got to New Madrid that night I was immediately greeted on the boat ramp by someone who had just come ashore as well and aske if there was anything I needed. When I said I wouldn't mind buying something for dinner rather than having my usual soup or Tuna and rice he drove me to a restaurant and waited while my order of hamburgers was taken

An Unexpected Development

I am sitting in a funeral parlour typing this post. Reports of my death are greatly exaggerated but the doctors said the operation was a success and that I should make a full recovery.I will be spending a second night in Caruthersville and on the river again tomorrow. I awoke this morning and decided that as the infection I have suffered from over the past few weeks didn't seem to be getting any better and possibly worse,that I should see a doctor. Trouble is it is Saturday here.I walked to the local police station which a passerby had told about the night b/4. They said I would have to go to the hospital which was 5 miles away and one of them volunteered to take me. I was seen by several medical types,had my blood taken along with other tests. The diagnosis which surprised me was that along with the infection I was suffering from dehydration. I was surprised because it it one one the risks common to kayaking everywhere and I was very aware of it and thought I was taking great care,drinking water and Gatorade constantly through the day and even when I woke during the night.Apparently I will have to drink a lot more(no Dave,not beer). I was put on an IV drip and then when that was done ,released with a prescription for antibiotics and a bag of crackers and cheese one of the doctors gave me. I got back to the boat after hitching a ride with two black men who invited me to join them playing pool. I declined. I sat on a park bench after deciding it was too hot to get on the river and wondering how I was going to fill in the rest of the day.A big pick up truck pulled up with an elderly couple in it. The woman enquired whether I was the kayaker and the man asked if I would like a bath. They drove me to a small flat where I had my first bath since St Louis. We are going to dinner later. I could stay in the flat tonight but I don't want to leave the boat and I want to be on the water early tomorrow

Thursday, July 7, 2011

Cairo

Greg reached Cairo today.
He has now paddled over 1350 miles, with 950 miles remaining. He is making good progress despite the high temperatures,and is paddling 50 to 60 miles each day.

Monday, July 4, 2011

Chillin' With Lauren in St Louis

Their plane was delayed an hour or so but Lauren and her parents turned up shortly after midday on Friday. After a nice lunch in the famous Blue Owl restaurant in Kimmswick. we heade to the Annheuser Busch brewery for the tour and the beer sampling afterwards.We also managed to get to the Schafly microbrewery for their last tour and tasting of 4 of their fine products (the theme of this trip continues Dave).On Saturday we started off at Grant's farm which had lots of animals that Lauren enjoyed.As the farm is owned by the brewery there was free beer on offer.While the  limit is supposed to be two serves a day, Matthew and I soon worked out that the same servers couldn't be on duty all day. Sure enough when we went back a little later there had been a change of shift. The next stop was a scupture park and by then the temp was 100 degrees and I could have done with some free beer.The final stop of the day was a wild bird park where we saw several bald eagles and snakes. We bought food from the supermarket for dinner back at our motel.
Today we are starting at the zoo. I hope to see the Chain of Rocks dam to find out if I could have paddled over it instead of battling my way up the canal to bypass it

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Break Out

After getting advice that the locks weren't shut to recreational boats and choosing to believe the advice that the harbour at St Louis wasn't closed, I decided to go for it. I was on the water at 7,30 and paddled the now flooded street behind the wine bar out to the river. I made good time for the 20 miles to the Alton locks and shot under the open dam gate without difficulty.I eventually made it to the confluence with the Missouri but as I was on the far side I didn't notice any difference in river speed or extra turbulence. I then entered the 5 mile canal that by passed the Chain of Rocks which given the extra water I probably could have paddled over but I didn't want to risk sight unseen.The canal was hard work with no current and a head wind but eventually I got to the final lock with a 5 minute stop to remix my drink bottle. For the first time at a lock I shared with another vessel, a Corp of Engineers tug. Leaving the lock I rejoined the combined river.Boy was it moving fast. It was also full of debris,logs and trees. There didn't seem to be a huge increase in commercial traffic but there were a lot of moored barges that I had to keep well clear of.The arch and downtown soon came into view and disappeared,fo;;owed by the Coast Guard HQ.I half expected a fast boat to be despatched to arrest me but nothing. I made the 20 miles (30k) to the famous Hoppies Marina at Kimswick in two and a half hours. A total distance of 60 miles for the day in 11 hours-a new record which I know I will soon break as the guys ahead of me are doing 80 mile days.
At the marina there was a nice lawn to land on. I was given .permission to camp and to leave my boat for 3 days when Jane comes to pick me up. I was soon offered a beer or two or three and given dinner by a couple of the house boat residents. All in all a very successful day