Barge Tows

One of the risks I mentioned on an earlier post was barge tows. So far they have not been an issue. They are so slow moving that I usually see them from a distance and can get well clear of the channel. I also travel on the same side of the channel as the up stream barges. That way the if I don't hear or see a downstream tow it should pass on the other side of the channel. Of course the tows get much bigger down from the last lock at St Louis. At the moment they don't exceed 15 barges but I can expect tows of up to 24 barges

The river revisited

It would seem that I can't stay away from the river. For our roadtrip from Atlanta I decided to head back to the river to show Juliet the places I stayed/camped,to see some of the people that were so kind to me,and to see how much the river had changed in 6 weeks. We drove across Tennessee in double quick time stopping only in Nashville to see the home of Pres Andrew Jackson (Old Hickory) the hero of the battle of New Orleans. We hit the river at Caruthersville Missouri,the home of Boots and Howard who had previously lent me a condo for the afternoon and taken me to dinner in the casino. It was evident the river had dropped at least 8 feet since i was last there. There were islands and sandbars where none had existed b/4. From there we checked out my campsites at New Madrid,Chester,Cape Girardeau,Cairo and Kimswick. The final visit was to Grafton where Alison had let me stay in one of her luxury B&B cottages for 3 nights. It is a wonder I am not still there. The last stray that came on to the property was a lovely dog called Murphy who stayed for 10 years and who had sadly passed away a couple of days prior.It was interesting to see how much the current in the river had diminished with the lower water level.
I also learned that the 3 paddle boarders who are vying to be the first down the river have all past St Louis.
I can't believe they will be allowed through the busy commercial traffic further south

Risk Management revisited

On an early post I set out all the risks that I envisaged I might face that weren't common to kayaking generally. All the way down the river I kept waiting for something I hadn't anticipated on that list to happen but I am pleased to say it never did.I thought I should review the list now the trip has finished to evaluate the risks I did identify
1/Deer ticks. I didn't encounter these but I did have a couple of ordinary ticks latch on at different stages
2/Barge tows. I thought I coped with these very well.It was a case of keeping to the edge of the channel and moving further towards shore when I saw a tow approaching.The biggest issue was with all the parked barges south of Baton Rouge. There would be tugs scattered among them and it was hard to tell if they where moored or working. I learned to look for the tell tale puff of diesel smoke as engines kicked into life and then wait to see if the tug was taking a barge across the river or up the river towards me and adjust my course accordingly. I did get tooted at a couple of times but I wasn't in any danger-I just think the tug captains don't understand kayaks and what they are capable of. I certainly never felt I had the slightest close call
3/Wing Dams. These were all submerged and all created a greater or lesser degree of turbulence. This is where I think it was important not to have had an IPOD on but to be listening to the sounds of the river. The noise the turbulence made could be heard some distance away. I had no control of the boat once it hit the turbulence and whirlpools and boils would throw it one way and then another for a couple of hundred yards. There would also be waves,especially if the wash from a passing tow should hit at the same time
$/Poison Ivy Didn't see any
6/Snakes/Saw two but they had to be pointed out to me
7/Bears. I have told the story of a previous traveller who saw what he thought was a black lab swimming in the river in front of him. It was a bear. Well,I saw what I thought were THREE black labs swimming in the river in front of me. They were 3 black labs
8/Alligators. Didn't see any although enjoyed a great alligator salad at the restaurant at the finish as I had promised myself b/4 leaving NZ
9/Storms.Encountered several on the river and while sleeping. Certainly quite different from anything I had experienced b/4
10?Raccoons The zip on my day bag failed and I twice came to the boat in the morning to find muddy footprints and my beef jerky and cheese crackers gone
11/Locks No issues even when I went under the raised dam gates
12/Wolves Apart from a dog like creature swimming across the river that was probably a wild dog ,I didn't see any.
13/Chain of Rocks. This is the artificial dam across the river north of ST louis that I took the canal around. I checked it out later and found that the river was so high you couldn't see where it was and could have paddled over it
14/Shipping There is an unbelievable number of ocean freighters from Baton Rouge south. They are very quiet and very fast,but I kept well out of the channel on that portion of the river and they weren't an issue
15/Asian Carp. Saw a couple but they weren't as big a problem as the videos I had seen would suggest.Others saw more
16/Humans/ It will be apparent from my previous blogs that I didn't have a problem with people-quite the opposite. I never felt unsafe even woken on a popular boat ramp in the middle of the night with youngsters cruising or doing burnouts or people wishing to engage me in religious discussions. The kindness of strangers is the thing that will stay with me for the rest of my life.I hope to be in a position to repay some of it in the future

My Worst Moment

The worst moment came on my last night on the river. I had left NO with approx 84 miles to my final destination. I saw from my charts that there was a ferry landing exactly halfway and knew from my past experience that this could offer a good landing/camping spot. As I paddled down I passed another ferry landing and was concerned to note that there was no way that I could have landed there. I decided that if I saw another suitable spot near the next ferry landing I would take it. There is a levee all along the river but it is hard to get to because there is a mini levee of rocks with trees in front of it. I couldn't believe my luck when I spotted a gap in the mini levee with a small mud beach so I landed. The top of the levee was covered with tall grass and I thought would be having a good sleep. Behind the levee and completely fenced of was an enormous house. I lay in the sun for an,phoned Jane, made dinner, put up my tent,and around dusk lay down for the night.Almost immediately the sheriff appeared and informed me that I was on private property and that the complainant,the woman in the big house, wanted me gone. I politely pointed out that it was nearly dark and that I could be at some risk on the river after dark. He didn't care,just said I couldn't stay there.I quickly packed up,put on my head torch (which was not as strong as 2 months ago) and set off.Fortunately 3 miles down the river I came across the ferry landing that was my original destination and found that I could get ashore. It was with a great deal of relief that I put my tent up for the second time that night at about 10pm and went to sleep

The last few days

The hospitality on the last few days of the river was amazing. I felt like an escaped slave on the underground railway as I was passed from family to family down the river.It all started at mile 180 south of Baton Rouge. I had just paddled through one rain shower when i noticed another approaching. The problem with the rain was the almost complete loss of visibility and with tugs having a nasty habit of speeding out from behind parked barges it was a little unsafe.I happened to come upon a dock at which were moored two launches that service the freighters that anchor at the edge of the channel, taking workmen and supplies too and fro. I spent 3 hours with the captain of one ,George Mitchell zooming out to the ships and back. He then offered me a bed for the night in his trailer behind a plantation house nearby.In the morning I met Daniel Wahl,a young man doing the same job as George. He immediately volunteered that his grandparents who lived 35 miles down the river would look after me. When I got to Lutcher I called Daniel and within minutes his grandmother was there to take me home,where I took part in a combined father/daughter birthday party.The grandparents in turn said that they knew someone in New Orleans who could not only put me up but also remove the kayak to safety as it couldn't be left on the river bank over night. When I got to N.O. I came ashore on the south bank at the Algiers ferry landing in the sand/mud and rang Steve. He was there in very quick time with a helper and we lifted the kayak over the levee and on to the back of the pick up truck. It overhung the back and stuck out the side and two of us sat on the back to hold it for the 6 blocks to the accommodation. In the morning they delivered me back to the river for the last 2 days of paddling to my final destination

You are wonderful.

There are many people we want to thank in connection with this trip.
At the moment we are passing followers' comments on to Greg when he phones. These are most encouraging as he soldiers on through the heat wondering where he'll find a spot to camp overnight, or whether he'll be able to replenish supplies of much-needed  food and water. Often these problems are solved by kind strangers Greg happens to meet. If you are one of these people, Greg wants you to know that your friendly words and/or offers of cold drinks etc are very much appreciated. Most recent thanks goes to Rodney who spent a little time with Greg, and later brought him a bag of cold fruit.

With approximately 200 miles still to paddle, Greg wants you all to know that things like this are what makes the journey so enjoyable.

What next?

Greg is approaching the final stage of his journey,with Louisiana on both sides of the river . He will be in Baton Rouge tonight, and has paddled 2000 miles. He now has 300 miles to go - in New Zealand terms this is the distance from our local boat ramp in Takapuna to Cape Reinga.
Recently we received an email from a fellow kayaker who told us he and his friends had some initial doubts as to Greg's chances of completing the trip down the river. Little did they know! A short time later they heard of "an older gentleman with a strange accent and a blue kayak" who was about a week ahead of them on the river. They met again just before Natchez as Greg has taken a number of rest days around St Louis. Although Greg has continued to paddle solo, these new friends left a message for him in the first bar beside the river in Natchez, so he was able to phone them and spend a night with them at a family member's house. This gave Greg a much-needed opportunity to resupply before returning to the river where he spent the next night sleeping on gravel! Apparently a life-jacket makes a very good mattress when all else fails.
Local people have continued to show great kindness , offering water and sometimes food or Coca cola.
At Angola Prison the ferry operator gave Greg three bottles of coke and a packet of chocolate biscuits.
Greg continues to keep in touch by phone. When asked last night what he's looking forward to once he gets off the river, Greg replied he's looking forward to getting cool.

Natchez tomorrow

Tonight Greg is a little south of Vicksburg, Mississippi.
He is surviving the heat and lack of grocery stores by a combination of dining at all you can eat casino restaurants and random acts of kindness by passing boaties. Cold drinks and refreshments have been offered several times today, and have been very gratefully received.

This is geting exciting!

Greg is now about two days away from Vicksburg, Mississippi.

Company

This afternoon with the temperature over 100 degrees ,Greg was resting on a sandbank when he heard someone call his name. There were three kayakers he'd last seen at Palisade. They are sharing a camping spot tonight after consuming an all you can eat buffet at a casino in Tunica, Mississippi.
Greg is feeling good . He has now paddled 1600 miles, and has 700 to go.

The Days Ahead

The towns on the rest of the river now become more than a day's paddle apart,so finding somewhere to stop along the way may become more difficult. With the river so high there are not as many exposed sand bars although I was relieved to see there have still been a few. The other thing to look for on the charts is boat ramps but often they don't have any grass, just gravel. Finally, the many grain silos along the way offer possibilities but they are often protected by rock walls so there is nowhere to land. I had my worst night yet at Cape Girardeau recently. I missed the gap in the flood wall the signified the entrance to the boat harbour I was looking for. The town was completely surrounded by concrete flood walls. I came across what was a small flooded road that ran down to the river with two grain silos on what looked to be flat grassy land. On closer inspection it was basically gravel and  concrete. There was a two storey office building with stairs leading to an upstairs wooden deck. I decided the deck would do and that I would just sleep out in the open air. I didn't sleep a wink. First there was the heat,then the mosquitoes,then the noise of frogs and other critters in the surrounding flood waters,passing barge tows and the occasional train. The wooden deck was the least of it (as some of you know I don't use an air mattress or thermarest-Charlie can vouch that I have even been known to use a log of wood for my pillow). Needless to say I slept well the next night even if the high grass concealed great ruts in the ground when it was flattend by my lying on it

More Kindness of Strangers

When I left Cape Girardeau for New Madrid I stopped at two small towns along the way.Unfortunately they were both set a mile or more from the river. At the first there were two women on the boat ramp. When I asked if there was any water to be had they immediately offered to drive me to a restaurant in town to get some. At the next town I was in need of a toilet (I prefer not to dig a hole in the bushes with all the snakes and poison ivy) There was a Coast Guard boat moored and I asked and was declined permission to land next to it and ask if I could use their facilities. I was told to land the other side of a fence 50 metres away. I climbed to the top of the flood wall to be faced with a church, a closed pizza shop, a cottge with a car out front. The Coastguard Building. As the gate was wide open and no signs prohibiting entry, I went in and entered the building. I was expecting some sort of office building but it turned out to be a dorm with bunk rooms, a gym,kitchen and importantly restrooms. As there was no -one to ask I simply took advantage of the facilities. The was also a shower and washing machine and I probably could have used both without anyone being the wiser. I walked out unchallenged and knocked on the door of the cottage to find in which direction the town lay and how far away it was. It was answered by an 82 year old man who told me it was over a mile away and offered to take me there,which I accepted. We went to the grocery store for a few provisions and he drove me back to my boat. When I finally got to New Madrid that night I was immediately greeted on the boat ramp by someone who had just come ashore as well and aske if there was anything I needed. When I said I wouldn't mind buying something for dinner rather than having my usual soup or Tuna and rice he drove me to a restaurant and waited while my order of hamburgers was taken

An Unexpected Development

I am sitting in a funeral parlour typing this post. Reports of my death are greatly exaggerated but the doctors said the operation was a success and that I should make a full recovery.I will be spending a second night in Caruthersville and on the river again tomorrow. I awoke this morning and decided that as the infection I have suffered from over the past few weeks didn't seem to be getting any better and possibly worse,that I should see a doctor. Trouble is it is Saturday here.I walked to the local police station which a passerby had told about the night b/4. They said I would have to go to the hospital which was 5 miles away and one of them volunteered to take me. I was seen by several medical types,had my blood taken along with other tests. The diagnosis which surprised me was that along with the infection I was suffering from dehydration. I was surprised because it it one one the risks common to kayaking everywhere and I was very aware of it and thought I was taking great care,drinking water and Gatorade constantly through the day and even when I woke during the night.Apparently I will have to drink a lot more(no Dave,not beer). I was put on an IV drip and then when that was done ,released with a prescription for antibiotics and a bag of crackers and cheese one of the doctors gave me. I got back to the boat after hitching a ride with two black men who invited me to join them playing pool. I declined. I sat on a park bench after deciding it was too hot to get on the river and wondering how I was going to fill in the rest of the day.A big pick up truck pulled up with an elderly couple in it. The woman enquired whether I was the kayaker and the man asked if I would like a bath. They drove me to a small flat where I had my first bath since St Louis. We are going to dinner later. I could stay in the flat tonight but I don't want to leave the boat and I want to be on the water early tomorrow

Cairo

Greg reached Cairo today.
He has now paddled over 1350 miles, with 950 miles remaining. He is making good progress despite the high temperatures,and is paddling 50 to 60 miles each day.

Chillin' With Lauren in St Louis

Their plane was delayed an hour or so but Lauren and her parents turned up shortly after midday on Friday. After a nice lunch in the famous Blue Owl restaurant in Kimmswick. we heade to the Annheuser Busch brewery for the tour and the beer sampling afterwards.We also managed to get to the Schafly microbrewery for their last tour and tasting of 4 of their fine products (the theme of this trip continues Dave).On Saturday we started off at Grant's farm which had lots of animals that Lauren enjoyed.As the farm is owned by the brewery there was free beer on offer.While the  limit is supposed to be two serves a day, Matthew and I soon worked out that the same servers couldn't be on duty all day. Sure enough when we went back a little later there had been a change of shift. The next stop was a scupture park and by then the temp was 100 degrees and I could have done with some free beer.The final stop of the day was a wild bird park where we saw several bald eagles and snakes. We bought food from the supermarket for dinner back at our motel.
Today we are starting at the zoo. I hope to see the Chain of Rocks dam to find out if I could have paddled over it instead of battling my way up the canal to bypass it

Break Out

After getting advice that the locks weren't shut to recreational boats and choosing to believe the advice that the harbour at St Louis wasn't closed, I decided to go for it. I was on the water at 7,30 and paddled the now flooded street behind the wine bar out to the river. I made good time for the 20 miles to the Alton locks and shot under the open dam gate without difficulty.I eventually made it to the confluence with the Missouri but as I was on the far side I didn't notice any difference in river speed or extra turbulence. I then entered the 5 mile canal that by passed the Chain of Rocks which given the extra water I probably could have paddled over but I didn't want to risk sight unseen.The canal was hard work with no current and a head wind but eventually I got to the final lock with a 5 minute stop to remix my drink bottle. For the first time at a lock I shared with another vessel, a Corp of Engineers tug. Leaving the lock I rejoined the combined river.Boy was it moving fast. It was also full of debris,logs and trees. There didn't seem to be a huge increase in commercial traffic but there were a lot of moored barges that I had to keep well clear of.The arch and downtown soon came into view and disappeared,fo;;owed by the Coast Guard HQ.I half expected a fast boat to be despatched to arrest me but nothing. I made the 20 miles (30k) to the famous Hoppies Marina at Kimswick in two and a half hours. A total distance of 60 miles for the day in 11 hours-a new record which I know I will soon break as the guys ahead of me are doing 80 mile days.
At the marina there was a nice lawn to land on. I was given .permission to camp and to leave my boat for 3 days when Jane comes to pick me up. I was soon offered a beer or two or three and given dinner by a couple of the house boat residents. All in all a very successful day

A Profitable Day (or Time Spent in Reconnaissance is Seldom Wasted

As a graduate of the Neil Watson school of preparation (albeit not with honours but a conceded C pass) the day was spent on finding out the status of the river around St Louis for recreational boats. We drove down to Alton to visit the lock there for information. There we established that the locks were not shut to small crafts and that it was the coast guard that would close St Louis Harbour. We were advised that it wasn't going to close until Friday which made sense because the flood crest was scheduled to hit then and also with a holiday w/e there would be more boats out and about than normal. Having also checked out where Rotary meets in relation to the marina, and got permission to camp at the marina on Thursday night (it looked fabulous),my current thinking is that I will now skip Alton altogether. It is 17 miles from here, with a further 23 miles to the Arch in downtown St Louis. I could have my kayak collected there but I would have to find somewhere to sleep for the night. The alternative is to put in an extra effort and push on another 20 miles to the next town Kimswick. The famous Hoppies Marina is situated there it it may be possible to leave my boat there for the duration of Jane and Matthew's visit rather than have it picked up and stored as is the current plan. It wouldn't be too far for them to pick me up on Friday or I may even be able to make it back into town myself the next day. I shall discuss with Jane in my daily phone call tonight

Grafton Marina

I mentioned in an earlier post spending a happy afternoon in the bar at the marina when I arrived on Monday. It is the best marina I have seen on this trip.Not only does it have a swimming pool but it also has 6 shower /toilet suites that are absolutely immaculate.To top it all off the owner/barman is obviously the long lost identical twin brother of that well known kayaking legend and my good friend ,Guy Folster. I took some degree of solace and comfort in being served beers by him all afternoon.

R & R

I spent a quiet day yesterday on the computer,updating this blog and my Facebook page,looking at and clearing e-mails at the office and home. I also spent a bit of time reading. Alison's father Larry,who built Tara Point was aman I would have liked to meet. I think he and I share the same sense of humour. His presence is very much all around. The games room where I am now has walls lined with humourous quotations and jokes.Larry also published a free newspaper which didn't cover real news but had stories and whimsy that he eventually published in a book that I read. Some of the quotations are the same as appear on my T shirts so I know he would have appreciated the few that I have on this trip. He was also an authority on bald eagles which winter over in this town and knew where all the nesting sites were.
When Alison returned from helping a daughter clean up a house she was vacating ( a parent's job is never done) we went down to the marina for dinner preceeded by a couple of beers in the wine bar. Unfortunately the kitchen closed at 8.00 so we  went home and had spaghetti and meatballs from the freezer.

Locks and Dams

At the start of the trip I was concerned about the time I would lose waiting to go through a lock. Obviously the commercial traffic takes priority and it can take a couple of hours for a large barge tow to be split in half and lock through.I rarely encountered a barge tow at the locks at the same time and the usual waiting time was only 15 -20 minutes. On one occasion they saw us coming and opened up the gates b/4 we arrived.
An even quicker method of getting through is to shoot the dam. Some times the flood gates were up and I could paddle through. We heard that this was illegal but on the two occasions we enquired we were told that they would neither permit it or prohibit it.
I was caught by surprise at the last dam. After I was committed to by-passing the lock I realised that the current was going a lot faster than on previous occasions and as I got within 100 metres I saw that there were some rather serious looking standing waves on the downstream side. I made it through with a bumpy ride but didn't have my spray skirt on so shipped a lot of water. It was quite an adrenaline rush. There was a barge tow approaching on the other side and I am sure the crew wondered who the idiot in the kayak was.

Storms

On one of my earlier posts I tried to identify all of the risks I would face on this trip that weren't common to kayaking anywhere. Among these was storms and the risk of a lightening strike. Until you have experienced a Mid West storm you have no idea how loud thunder can be and how long it lasts.It is all very well being advised to get off the river when a storm hits but sometimes this is impossible. All you can do is paddle close to the shore line and hope for the best. We got hit by a storm coming out of Hannibal a few days ago. It was accompanied by strong tail winds and for an hour or so we were really speeding along at about 10-12 kilometres an hour.
I believe that you can't really say you have camped until you have spent a night in a tent when a storm hits. I had my worst a few nights back. I could hear the distant thunder then without warning at about 2.00am I was hit by ferocious winds. The tent was rocking back and forth but stood up to it (except for the leaking problem). The winds lasted for an hour then died away to persistent rain which continued until mid morning

Fellow Travellers

Before I started on this trip I hoped I would encounter fellow river rats. I ran into Anthony and Jason a week ago when I saw their canoe at the side of the river where they were stopped for lunch. I knew of Anthony because his was the first trip of the year to go up on the web site of the Big  River magazine this year. Then a day or so later I encountered two canoes at the side of the river They were a blue grass band who played for children and were making a documentary about the river between St Paul and St Louis. I met up with both groups later in the day and we all paddle together to Hannibal (Mark Twain's hometown) where we had a meal together and camped in the park next to the river. The next morning Anthony, Jason and I decided to hit the water just b/4 lunch after thinking the worst of the bad weather had passed. It hadn't. We separated that night and I saw them again for probably the last time when I pulled into Grafton at midday just as they were leaving on a shuttle they had arranged to get around the closed portion of the river.
As well as these characters there are the 3 young guys I met up north. I was told by the man who had met them that they weren't exactly early risers and that I would probably catch them very soon.In,fact I caught them at noon the net day in the very small town of Palisades. They weren't going to paddle further that day and I did another 30 miles after having lunch with them in a local restaurant
Finally there is Jeff who I haven't met.He saw my blog b/4 I left NZ and gave me his phone number. I have been phoning him occasionally and was gaining on him until this 6 day layover I am about to enjoy

Unbelievable Hospitality Continued

Since leaving Keokuk I have largely camped out by my self but sometimes with fellow river rats.I have been trying to slow down over the past few days because I am way ahead of schedule to meet my daughter Jane in St Louis next Friday.Right now I am in Grafton Illinois,a day's paddle away. I did a short 4 hour 20 mile paddle yesterday to pull into the marina just in time to meet and farewell (probably for the last time) 2 of my recent travelling companions.The marina had excellent shower and toilet facilities and an upstairs bar/restuarant to which I soon adjourned. After spending the afternoon drinking free beer and keeping a watchful eye on 3 young ladies in the pool below and rflecting on how tough the trip was becoming my luck got even better (No Charlie ,I didn't get invited home by one of the young ladies-be realistic)
I had already decided that the low lying area the lads had camped on the night b/4 was unsuitable (especially if it rained again as predicted. I had established the a vacant section up against the next strreet and right beside a winery/bar was the best spot. I put up the inner to dry and spread out the fly to dry from the night b/4 and sat beside it b/4 going back into the bar where I had previously had dinner. I was preceeded by a group of 4 women and I had barely got seated when one approached and asked if i was from NZ. She said she had heard about me and that she owned a B&B on a bluff above and would I like to stay in one of the cottages!!!!To call it a cottage is not to do it justice. It is a large one bedroom apartment with a king sized bed,2 TVs and a jacuzzi (which I soaked in this morning). And it is mine for another two nights.On top of it all Alison,the owner, knows the General in charge of the Corps of Engineers and is going to plead my case to be given a special dispensation to go through. the next two locks (a section of the river is closed to small craft because of the high water levels)I am also going to Rotary in Alton on Thursday and will check out the lock ther. to see if there is any way to portage around it and the next lock.

River Closed

Greg is at Grafton, Illinois. He intends to continue on to the last lock at Alton. The next part of the journey will involve transporting the kayak around St Louis. Ten miles of the river have been closed due to very high water levels.
Greg sometimes comes across other kayakers who are also heading for the Gulf. A group recently spent some time relaxing together in Hannibal, Missouri, where the Mark Twain Museum proved well worth a visit.
On a less happy note, the new tent leaked like a sieve in last night's thunderstorm.

Locks

I have become an old hand at locking through. Unfortunately my VHF charger has given up the ghost on me. I used to call up the lock when I got close,identify myself,and ask for instructions. I would also express my thanks after I locked through. All the locks have a cord at the end of the approach wall that one pulls. Someone then comes out and gives instructions. At some locks the dam gates are up and I can shoot through under neath without having to wait. At most locks there has been a minimal delay. I have only had to wait a couple of times while a barge tow locks through. As a solo kayaker I have the lowest priority.
Lock 9 is my favourite lock. A storm was brewing as I arrived and iIwas advised it was too dangerous to lock through. I was taken into the control room,given a can of pop and the lady lock keeper sent me on my way  after an hour with her packed lunch and a bag of chips

Paddling

The wind has been a killer the last few days with headwinds of 20 knots plus each day. It is so strong that the benefit of the current is completely negated. My technique is to hug the shoreline where the waters are calmer,crossing over to the other side if it looks more protected. My mileage has dropped from 45 miles a day to 35 miles but I only need to average 27 or so miles over the next week to get to St Louis in time to meet my daughter,son-in -law and grand daughter where I will probably take a break for a few days.
The next paddling day will see me pass the 1,000 mile mark and hit a new state (Missouri)

River Hospitality

I continue to be amazed at the hospitality I continue to be offered. Right from the first night at Coffee Pot Landing where I was given a beer and had dinner cooked for me by a fellow traveller through to last night where I was taken in by a Christian couple,fed,given a bed and had my washing done.
The night b/4 found me at Burlington where I ended up being taken to a neighbourhood bar in the tray of a pick up truck,then transferring to a big old Cadillac to be transported to a Chinese buffet restaurant for dinner.A night or so b/4 I was lucky enough to encounter Skip who gave me the use of his river house (had a good bath) and took me out to dinner.At an RV park Bill (who was going into town) gave me access to his RV to shower and to  take what I wanted from his beer fridge-I left money) Then there was Gigi at Little Falls who took me shopping at Walmart,gave me dinner and drove me to inspect the next day's portage. She also turned up unannounced at 7.00am the next morning to offer to drive me around the portage(I dclined as that would have been cheating).Then of course there was Greg and Suzanne who drove me to the start and who put me up when I got back to the Twin Cities
I hope the hospitality continues as I have enjoyed meeting every one

Photos from Jane

Here are some pictures of Dad kayaking with Skip Willits, who he met on the river.

And now....

Greg is in Dubuque, Iowa, and still enjoying his adventure.

Wetlands

In one of my earlier posts I mentioned that it is expected that one will get lost going through the wetlands but that one will get out eventually. It is just a rite of passage. The trick to not getting lost when the current is not discernible on the surface,is to look at the grass growing on the bottom and see which way this is pointing. But sometimes this fails. On one occasion,after going around in circles (I think) and getting no help from the advice of a passing fisherman, I spied a man mowing his lawn on a sit on top mower about 1 kilometre away. I decided to paddle straight to him ,blasting through reeds and bull rushes until I could get no closer than about 300 metres away. I then got out and started walking in thigh deep water stumbling over clumps of grass until I eventually made it to shore, The man had been watching from his lawn mower all this time and when I finally collapsed prostrate at his feet his first words to me were "Do you want a beer?" "No thanks" I replied,
"I'm a teetotaller"

Portages

There have been numerous portages over this stage,varying in length from 100 metres up to 1 kilometre.
I am so glad I bought a small set of wheels,otherwise I would have had to unload the boat each time and make several trips. The wheels were even a help on the very first portage over a rough stony bush track. Some of the portages involved walking along pavements or streets. Others involved a walk through a park. The worst was Blanchard Dam. Not only was it one of the longest but it went up and over 2 or 3 small but very steep slopes, one of which had a set of steps which is not very helpful. It took all my strength to haul the fully laden boat up these slopes(although it did help when I took the 10 litres of water out). I was lucky not to do myself a serious injury going down the first slope.I was still pulling the boat from thee front and it got away from me on the grass, knocking me off balance. I was very proud of my judo roll down the slope and escaped without serious injury even with the kayak also running over me.
I am pretty sure there are no more portages

Stage 1 Completed

I am now back in the Twin Cities having completed 500 miles which constitutes a kayak "expedition"This is 200 miles longer than my previous longest  trip although it is not yet my longest in time. That will be in another three days.I am now over 3 days ahead of my schedule which added to the 2 days earlier than expected start is giving me plenty of room if I have to stop for a few days for some reason.
Tomorrow I start the second stage of the 29 locks to St Louis. The locks in town have been shut to small craft for some time but reopened on Monday. I would have been disappointed to have missed them.
As you may have gathered from previous posts ,the hospitality has been amazing. Last night ,for example, I knocked on the door of the Kraus household in Montecello (despite the sign saying No Solicitors). They gave permission for me to put up my tent on the front lawn and later father and son came down to fish and talk.We were soon joined by the grandfather who lived next door who invited me out to dinner.His son and grandson joined us at the local corner cake/restaurant where I had roast beef,mashed potatoes and gravy with a good beer. Other people have cooked me lunch and dinner and driven me to the local Walmart to resupply. A special mention must go to the Northland Lodge at Lake Winnie. I had just completed a gruelling 5 hour crossing with  a continuous storm for over half of whipping the waves enough to make it interesting, I arrived wet and cold and the owner agreed to let me put my tent up. This was bettered by an offer from a visitor to put me up at his place nearby. The owner's son then advised that a cabin had come free with a bed that had not been slept in which I could have free of charge. Within 5 minutes I went from feeling like a drowned rat to having a hot shower in a warm cabin.All warm and clean I adjourned to the bar where I enjoyed a pitcher of beer and conversation with visiting fishermen and the owner and his son. (Actually,I think the son was the owner) The father, Ray,is convinced I am not going to make it all the way so I have to prove him wrong.
The weather certainly changes from one extreme to the other here. After enjoying pleasantly coolish weather we have had 2 scorchers. The first day the temperature reached 95 degrees and was a record here for that day of the year. That was exceeded the next day when the temp reached 103 degrees and it was the hottest in the country. It was accompanied by a strong warm headwind,strong enough to negate the current if I stopped paddling. I drank copious amounts of water all day

A brief update from Juliet

Greg has now paddled over 400 miles, and is 3 days ahead of schedule. He hopes to reach Minneapolis this weekend. The weather is now extremely hot  with yesterday's temperature of 102 degrees being highest in the US. In these conditions simple pleasures such as consuming fresh fruit and cold chocolate milk are greatly appreciated.
Local people continue to be extremely hospitable, providing lawns to camp on, showers, meals,drinks, and companionship.
Right now Greg is a very happy camper!  

Fundraising

The Rotary Club of North Harbour has promised close to $NZ 3,000 if Greg completes the 3,734km (2,320 mile) trip down the Mississippi. Funds raised go to Greg's nominated charities - Parkinson and Alzheimer's Research. Most people are pledging small amounts for each of the eleven stages Greg completes. The current goal is to complete stage 4 in the next few days by reaching the 500 mile mark at Minneapolis. Stage 5 ends at the 1000 mile mark, while stage 6 will be completed in St Louis. Other stages are as follows - stage 7 - 1300 miles(Ohio River), stage 8- 1600 miles, 9 - Baton Rouge, 10- New Orleans, 11 New Orleans to Gulf. Greg hopes to finish the journey by returning to Venice Louisianna.

An update from Juliet

Greg is camping in the wilderness tonight, so this update comes from Juliet.

Greg paddled from Sandy Lake to Aitkin today in perfect kayaking weather with blue skies and a breeze.
He'll pass the 300 mile mark tomorrow, thereby completing stage 3 of the journey.

Greg has manged to keep in touch in a variety of ways, sometimes by direct phone-calls and emails to New Zealand, but more often by phoning our daughter, Jane , who lives in New York.( Thank-you for relaying news in both directions, Jane.)
Sometimes an email arrives from a kind stranger who has been given a business card with our email address .
Thanks to Joe Thompson who emailed from the Four Seasons Resort to say Greg was enjoying warm pizza before setting off across Lake Winnibigoshish on a windy day. We heard later that the trip took 5 hours, after which Greg spent a free night at a riverside lodge where he was still finishing his lunch-time pizza!
Thanks also to Matt Purdy from Grand Rapids, who emailed on June 2nd to let us know he had helped Greg with a portage . He told us Greg was looking well, was in great spirits, and appeared to be a "very interesting man":)  Joe Muller of Minnesota Power lent Greg a computer, and we received the news that Greg had spent the night before camped in a primitive campsite after getting lost in the wetlands and losing some time.Joe gave Greg a Google map and directions so he could find Cohasset to buy supplies and a hot meal.
People Greg has met on the river have been extremely kind.. Meals are shared, beer and coffee are offered, and places to camp provided as well as much companionship. This paddle through Minnesota will surely remain one of the highlights of Musselman's Mississippi Kayak Adventure.

A photo of the new boat

Suzanne sent me this picture of Greg in his blue boat at lake Itasca at the start of the river. Apparently he paddled around in the morning and left about 1pm after having lunch with Suzanne and her husband.

The New Boat

I am at Suzanne's with her husband Greg waiting for her to return from having an MRI scan which has revealed two broken bones in her foot as well a sprained ankle. She will have to wear a moon boot for 6 weeks and take it easy for the following weeks which is big disappointment with summer around the corner and a move to a new job in California.
Well I have gone for the big and beautiful-boat that is. I am the proud owner of a Current Design Solstice Titan GT. It is dark blue all over with a red trim for the cockpit edge. I also bought a small trolley,aPFD and the gun for firing flares. It comes with four flares and I am looking to being able to say "Is this your lucky day punk"I am not sure if I am going to be able to bring it back to NZ.
We stopped at a bigger supermarket on the way back to the house and I was able to get some long life milk and milk powder as well as toilet paper and more crackers so I think I am pretty well set except for a weather radio which I hope to get on the way to the lake.
With all that is happening I don't think we will get away much b/4 mid afternoon so I am not likely to get the boat in the water today

 

Another Successful Day

I went back to Mid West Mountaineering first thing. I think I have decided on a PFD even though I couldn't get one exactly as I wanted. I bought a smoke flare,safety knife and some bug proof clothing.I was tempted to buy some ordinary flares if only because of the awesome looking pistol used to set them off.It would satisfy those who thought I should take some sort of fire arm to shoot it out with any bad guys. However,as I don't plan to do any night paddling there didn't seem to be much point. I left without telling the assistants of the choice of kayak I had made but promising to be back in the morning.I bought a small pocket mirror at the pharmacy next door,not out of vanity, but to tie to my paddle if I need to see over the grass in the wetlands if I take the wrong path.
I jumped back on the train and got off near the Metrodome to walk to the river.I was quite staggered to see the amount of turbulence below the St Anthony Falls and the amount of water going over them. I wouldn't want to be swept over them. I was pleased to see the water into the lock. while fast flowing,was quite calm. It was good to see in real life so I know what to expect when I turn up again in 3 weeks. I watched a tug with two barges lock through.
Feeling hungry, I decided to see if I could find the grill I had passed yesterday without taking note of it's exact location. One of the main streets leading away from the river has been made into a pedestrian mall and it is lined with restaurants with outdoor seating. On Thursdays it has a number of produce stalls which made for a very pleasant ambience. I located the grill without any difficulty and for $7.95 enjoyed bacon and eggs,hash browns and toast. The menu is signed with greetings from Pres Clinton who popped in for lunch some years ago. If it was alright with Bill it was certainly alright with me.
I realised there was a Target Store nearby and suspecting there might be groceries sold I headed over .I was right and have now purchased a week or so of food-oatmeal,juice,tuna,rice,pasta dried fruit,bananas and crackers. The only thing I couldn't find was any long life or powdered milk and dried veges.We will probably stop at a bigger supermarket on the way to the lake tomorrow. I also need to stop at an out doors store as the only piece of gear I am missing is a weather radio. It might be good to know if a tornado was heading my way even if there was nothing I could do about it.
I phoned Suzanne from the agreed rendezvous spot at 2.30 and within 20 minutes I was picked up and taken back to their place where I am now. We are going out to a very posh restaurant called Sea Change which is situated in the futuristic Guthrie Theatre on the river. (I checked it out this morning-"Time spent in reconnaissence....." and all that)
The plans have been made for the w/e. Tomorrow will probably just be spent driving to the lake.I don't think we will get away b/4 midday. We will probably just set up camp when we arrive although it might be nice just to wet my new boat and try it out. Greg and Suzanne aren't planning to take their boats. Suzanne has sprained/broken her ankle doing zumba (I knew there was a reason I hadn't taken it up apart from the fact that white men can't dance) so probably won't be doing much of anything. They are quite happy to drive me to the far end of the lake on Sat morning and push me off into Elk lake and leave me to circumnavigate that looking for any further streams b/4 portaging/paddling the 100yards or so into Lake Itasca and the 6k paddle back to the "official start". The time it takes for me to do that will determine how far I will try to go on the first day. I am only planning to do 30k to Coffee Pot campsite but if time and conditions allow I would like to push on to the next campsite 20k further on.if at all possible.
This may be the last post for a while although I will ask Suzanne if she can take some photos to send through when they get back.

Weather

The weather around here sure changes from one extreme to another very quickly. After having a deadly tornado the day b/4 I arrived yesterday was 58 degrees with a cool wind. You don't see many people on the streets nor are there many street level store fronts Everyone gets around using internal walkways through the buildings which are linked by 1st floor sky walkways.
The temperature is forecast to rise to 85 degrees early next week and to remain in the 80's for the rest of the week. Which reminds me I must get a weather radio today when I go back tothe kayak shop this morning. Unlike NZ I can't simply turn on my VHF to get a coast guard forecast. I also still need flares,a safety knifeand mirror
Finally ,remember,a good friend is someone who thinks you are a good egg even though he/she thinks you are slightly cracked

There Goes the Weight Loss programme

Weight loss programme? What weight loss programme? Oh,that? Well I haven't got on the river yet so it hasn't officially started. The restaurant I went to is called Chilis and it has 2 for 1 Margaritas and beers. At the least the food was reasonably healthy-make your own Fajitas. I ended up nursing a couple of Blue Moon beers (one of my favourites in the States) (alright a few) and watching the Stanley Cup playoffs between the Bruins and the Lightning-it brought back memories of my grad year in Toronto all those years ago when we had a key to the student common room and used to  let ourselves in to watch Hockey Night in Canada,play shuffle board,use the pinball machines and eat junk food from the banks of machines. In fact Minneapolis reminds me very much of Toronto and I guess the climate is similar. It is certainly a very green town and very clean. It strikes me as a very liveable city.
I have finally made contact with Suzanne and sorted out my plans for tomorrow. I shall go back to the kayak shop with my spray skirt and see how it fits the kayaks and perhaps buy the PFD,a set of small binoculars,(to watch birds and seek out landing and camping spots. I am going around to Suzanne's place mid afternnoon to use her computer ,then we are going to dinner at a seafood restaurant. I also will try to find a supermarket. There is a Walmart some miles back down the freeway but it looks like it will be quite difficult to get to by public transport.
And so to bed (Samuel Pepys)

Bloody Computers

When I arrived at the motel last night I was able to get on to the ondemandit site to check my office e-mails. Think I could do it today I just can't seem to get the website up again. Similarly, I cant even get the xtramail site at all.I am not allowed by the computer to get on to facebook as it is blocked. I can only access this blog. Maybe I will try at Suzanne's tomorrow night.
This is a great motel even though it is a lot further from the airport than the ones I had checked out a few weeks back. It is cheap ($55 a night plus tax) with a standard continental breakfast. It has a big indoor pool which I haven't used yet. My room is perfctly fine and the bed is great
A change of plans tomorrow. I will not be going to Lake Nokonis to test kayaks as they are not taking any of the 3 that I am interested in. I sat in the Storm and Titan at the boat shop. The Titan is a mighty fine fibreglass boat and I am sure we could have a happy and fulfilling relationship over the next 2 plus months if I bought it, but I am leaving it to the last possible moment to make my decision

What A Day

What a great day. Did everything I had planned.Took the shuttle back to the airport and hopped on the Light Rail to Downtown,something I had planned from NZ. As my wife is fond of saying "Time spent in reconnaiscence(? she can't spell very well) is seldom wasted" She also says "First secure your perimeter" (I must find out more about her past.
After walking around town for an hour I took the train back to the kayak shop where I spent time looking at the camping gear,PFDs and boats. I didn't buy anything but set off across the river for a Rotary meeting. My first glimpse of the river was very exciting. It is certainly flowing fast and if it is still like this when I get back in 2-3 weeks I will be in for a fast ride. I had quite a long walk and can feel the pounds slipping away already.
After lunch I went back to the kayak shop and bought matches,gas cylinders,water purifier,water purifying tablets,insect repellent.
I then hopped on the train to Mall of America where I found the perfect T shirt for my wife but unfortunately had to buy another one for me too,so I could get advantage of a two for one deal.Train back to the airport just in time to get on the waiting shuttle back to the motel. Off to a chain restaurant in the car park for dinner.
Haven't made contact with Suzanne who is providing the ride to Lake Itasca but will try again after dinner.
Still got to get food though did get some freeze dried meals at the kayak shop as a back up

Feeling Happy

After my convoluted flight over 30 hours through Melbourne,Los Angelesand Denver I am now at the Days Inn in Bloomington Minneapolis.It was with relief that my luggage appeared at both Los Angeles and on arrival here. The connections between flights were made with ease even though there was a delay of nearly an hour out of Melbourne. The United flight out of Los Angeles was right on time. I had forgotten that United's theme music was Gershwin's Rhapsody in Blue which is perhaps my favourite piece of music and always brings tears to my eyes (OK I am an emotional guy -who would have thought it-it just makes me so happy).
Today's order of business is to take the shuttle back to the airport and there catch the light rail to town. I am going straight to Mid West Mountaineering to check out their kayaks and other items of equipment I still need. I am going to try to get to a Rotary meeting at the Metrodome across the river which will be my first glimpse of the river which is going to be my home over the next weeks. I will also start buying my food supplies if iIcome across a supermarket
Feeling super excited

Why

I have often been askked why I am doing this paddle. I think the best way of answering this is to be found on the wbsite of a fellow paddler (deltaserf.com) where he sets out what it is not about. So with some adaptations;
1/It is not a race
2/I'm not the first (and not the last either) (Although if I start in any tributary that feeds inti Elk lake ,which feeds into Lake Itasca I might be able to claim that i am the first to travel the whole length of the river from it's source-every one else starts from where the river leaves lake Itasca and so I will have travelled another 10k or so further
3/I am not the oldest (well I am not sure about that)
4/I am definitely not the youngest
5/Its not for a cause(well that was true until I gave a talk at my rotary club on Friday and some of my fellow rotarians decided they would like to sposor me for my favourite charity. I did not want to be involved in using the paddle as a fund raising event because I simply didn't have time to put something together and I am an unproven long distance paddler. That was also behind my resaon not to seek sponsorship although there is an ideal company in the States that I could have approached called Musselman. They make fruit juice and fruit based snacks so it will be amatch made in heaven for future trips)
6/I am not raising money for anything (that was true until Friday see point 5 above. I have nominated my charity/ies as Pakinson's and Alzheimer's research,partly because it is an area my daughter Jane is involved in as a medical researcher and partly because the Michael J Fox Foundation has a high visibilty in the States to partner with in the future should I be foolish enough to want to do another paddle
7/It is not a tour or organized trip.
8/I am not trying to find myself
(hopefully I'll know where I am at all times)
9/It won't help me figure out the meaning of life
10/It won't make me a better man(at this point there probably isn't much chance of changing who I am)

This may be my last post for a while as I depart in less than 24 hours and I am not taking a lap top with me. I hope that the motel will have a computer or that I can go to the library or an internet cafe

The Day After

What a great farewell party-3pm to 1.00am-just like the old days when post paddle drinkies would often extend into the wee small hours. A big thanks to Steph,Guy and Mags for staying to play cards and for everyone else for making it such an enjoyable evening. I have said it b/4 and I will say it again-one of the best parts of kayaking this past 12 or so years has been the wonderful people I have met.
I loved the adptation of Moon River that was sung. Here are the lyrics
"Moon river,wider than a mile
Greg's crossing it in style
Old dream maker,you heartbreaker
Wherever you're going,Greg's going your way
One drifter,off to see the world
There's such a lot of world to see
You're after the same rainbow's end
Waiting'round the bend
My Huckleberry friend
Moon river and Greg"

with apologies to Andy Williams

Some More words of wisdom

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do than by the ones that you did do.So throw off the bowline.Sail away from the safe harbour.Catch the trade winds in your sails.Explore.Dream. Discover"
or as someone else put it
"You should always do something you might regret later rather than regret something you didn't do"
NEWS FLASH
I have just learnt that the first of this year's paddlers is setting off from Lake Itasca today. He is travelling by canoe with his father who is leaving him after two weeks to be replaced by a friend for the rest of the trip. He is planning to take 10 weeks which is the same as my schedule so he should always be just ahead of me but it will be fun to try and catch him. I am secretly hoping that if all goes as welll as I would like, that I will do it in 9 weeks in which case I will catch the canoeists just b/4 the end. I think that there will be other paddlers setting off at the same time as me and if so,while I don't intend to wait for them or expect them to wait for me ,it will be fun if we are constantly leapfrogging each other all the way down the river

Party Party

I am having what I have termed a going away/memorial party to which I have invited all my kayaking buddies/Rotarian friends and family. I don't know how many Rotarians are likely to turn up but there will be a good turnout from the kayakers, including some that don't kayak much these days and who as a consequence I don't get to see as nearly as much as I would like. It also looks like we will have a full turnout of all the 9 members of the original kayak for Cancer team except for one who is in Australia.This is fitting as it was this trip that sparked my interest in long distance paddling and has resulted in this trip being undertaken. My wife says it is all Chris Dench's fault and she will be having words with him on Saturday

D Day Minus Four

Only four days until I fly out.
I have spent the last few days checking out motels in Minneapolis. Most of them are close to the airport (naturally) and also close to the Mall of America. One is located across a parking lot from a Walmart Super Store which will be handy for buying my camping food.
I have also been checking out the public transport. There is a light rail that runs from the Mall of America ,through the airport to Downtown with a stop near the kayak shop. There is also a bus that runs from the motels to the Downtown,with a stop near the kayak shop.
The other development is that Suzanne Currie, the kind lady who is driving me to lake Itasca,would like to get away on the Friday,not Saturday. that should suit me down to the ground as it will mean I am a day ahead of my schedule right from the start.I am also looking at whether I can get off to a flying start by knocking off two days paddles on the first day.Both are relatively short and were intended to ease me in gently before the long days ahead. But if conditions and my fitness permit ,who knows. It would be a great psycological boost to be two days ahead of my schedule at the end of the first day.

The Wilderness

I found the following quote the other day which I thought was appropriate

"Generally speaking a howling wilderness does not howl,it is the imagination of the listener that does the howling.
Go confidently in the direction of your dreams
Live the life you have imagined

The Final Countdown

Three weeks today I will be winging my way to Minnesota.This weekend I have a paddle to Kawau Island and that might be the last time I dip a paddle in the water until Elk Lake or Lake Itasca. There are still a few items I have to buy before I go and I plan to spread out everything I have on the family room table and check the items off against the various gear lists to make sure I don't miss anything and also to be ruthless about what I do take.(Definitely taking the Roses chocolates and giant Jaffas)
On a previous post i identified 17 unique risks to plan for. Well make that 18.There was a documentary recently on Bull Sharks,mainly focussed on Queensland and how far they penetrate into fresh water and attack swimmers.,They also showed a map of USA which indicated that Bull Sharks may have penetrated a considerable distance up the Mississippi River. One of my helpful friends went on the internet to find two articles about Bull sharks in the river which he e-mailed to me (thanks Dave!!!!!)

Why paddle solo?

My wife thinks I should be paddling with someone else for safety and because I will get lonely. I have recently discovered the following quotation that sums one reason for solo paddling
"The man who goes out alone can start today,but he who travels with another must wait till that other is ready".
Couldn't have put it better myself

Gear

One of the issues I have is how much gear to buy here and how much to buy in Minneapolis. Obviously,I will have to buy my kayak there (although I did look into shipping my Seabear over). I am taking my own paddle and have just bought a second split paddle and sculpted dry bags which mimic the shapes of the front and back hatches by tapering to the shape of the boat.I will also buy a proper kayak PFD here which I am sure will cause some merriment amongst the kayaking fraternity here who are used to seeing me in ill fitting life jackets and ones that are coming apart at the seams. There are some things that I can't take on the plane such as gas canisters,matches and possibly a knife.I have even bought some Back Country dehydrated meals but I am not sure if I take these Then there is a tent. I have been waiting for the Katmandu Easter Sale to buy a good quality,light,three season tent but now that it has arrived I am disappointed on what is on offer. There is a vast range of quality tents available to me in America at reasonable so that is where I will buy it

Targets

In an endeavour to reduce the enormnity of the venture. I have broken the trip down into 11 short targets. I have already referred to the first four in an earlier post,namely
1/ Get through the wetlands to Bemidji-up to 3 days.My wife thinks that i will be so lonely after this time that I will want to come home once i get to this first town.To prove her wrong i have to last 4 days. Unfortunately this will plac eme in the middle of the lakes,my second target.
2/To get through the 4 lakes The giude book I have recommends against paddling across the largest of these because the wind can get up suddenly producing large waves. This advice is probably directed more towards canoeists rather than kayakers.
3/Pass the 300 mile mark equalling the distance from Takapuna to Cape Reinga,my longest paddle to date.
4Get to Minneapolis,a distance of 500 miles which qualifies as an expedition. Realistically,this is probably my first opportunity to pull out if i find i am not enjoying myself.
The other targets are
5/Pass the 1000 mile mark which is also approximately the comfluence with the Missouri, which is where the Mississippi becomes a seriously big river if it wasn't already
6/Reach St Louis-1180 miles and approximately half way,the end of the locks and dams, and the start of the free flowing river.
7/The confluence with the Ohio River or approx 1300 miles.
8/The 1500 mile mark. I haven't worked out where that is exactly but I am sure I will  b/4 I get there.
9/The 2000 mile mark ( or just north of New orleans,probably around Baton Rouge
10/New Orleans
11/Mile 0 or Head of Passes-10 miles past the end of the road at Venice La and another 10 miles to the sea. If I go right out to the Gulf of mexico I would hope to hitch a ride back to Venice with a passing fishing boat rather than battling 20 miles upstream

Time To Complete paddle

Once I tell people how long the river is,the next question is how long will it take. My reply is that the absolute maximum time I have in the USA is 90 days, being the time allowed under the visa. Having said that, I hope to keep to a time table of someone who paddled the river in 2001. He did it in 68 days,so, say 70 days. If you divide 70 into the length of the river,namely 3,500 kilometres this gives an average daily distance of 50 kilometres. Obviously, the daily distances will vary dramatically depending on the part of the river I am paddling. I think of the river as having 3 large sections. The first is loosely termed the wilderness and comprises approximately 750 kilometres to "civilisation" in Minneapolis. While there are some parts of this that will be slower going with several lakes and some obstructions to portage around, a lot of it is free flowing river with some current to assist., I would hope to approach the daily average during this section at least The next section is from Minneapolis to St Louis which has 29 locks and dams. It can take several hours waiting to be locked through, as while they will lock through a single kayaker, if there is any commercial traffic this gets priority. Consequently, the equivalent of up to 6 paddling days (assuming 12 hour paddling days) is effectively wasted and it might be difficult to reach the daily average over this section. Some of the locks may be able to be portaged around if there looks like being a delay.And, of course, where there are dams ,there are lakes. The invariable rule of kayaking that the wind is always in your face will no doubt apply to make the paddling even more harder going
 Although I am looking forward to the experience of being in a small boat in a vast steel chamber, it could get a little tiresome by lock 29.
The final section of the river is free flowing from St Louis to the sea. This is where I really hope to make up the daily distance. I should be really paddle fit by then,the days will be longer, and with a current of 3-4mph I hope to be able to do the odd 100k day
So,in summary,although I have been working on a 70 day timetable I really hope I can bring it down to 60 days. This will allow me plenty of time at the end to visit with my girls in Georgia and New York. Jane is hoping to come out to St Louis where I should be around July 4. It should be a good place for fireworks and there is a Ansheuer-Busch brewery in town that does tours for Matthew and me to enjoy. They have a famous team of Clydesdales that they use in their TV adverts that should interest grand daughter Lauren

Flooding!!!

One of the concerns I have is being forced off the river because of flooding. If this happens there are two options
1/Wait until the flooding subsides and proceed;or
2/Get a rde further down the river to where the flooding is not as bad and continue from there
As I will be operating with a limited time frame,option one doesn't appeal
Option 2 would mean bypassing a portion of the river frustrating the rationale for the trip which is to paddle all the river from source to sea.
Concern is already increasing that the Spring thaw will bring record flooding caused by ice jams of broken ice and the heavy runoff. Already it is being about in terms of the 1965 flood which is unrivalled in Mississippi flood lore.Winter precipitation has averaged 150-200 percent of the mean in the river catchment above MinneapolisStream flow is at or above the 90th percentile for this time of the year.
 So while the present flooding will undoubttedly have abated by the time I start out at the end of May it does reinforce that the river can flood in summer,generated in the old fashioned way by heavy rainfall in any of the catchment areas (remembering that the river drains 41% of the lower USA). Let s hope that doesn't happen this summer

Plastic v Fibreglass

Among the many issues occupying my mind over the last year or so is what type of kayak to use ,fibreglass or plastic. The advantage of fibreglass is size. The biggest fibreglass boats are bigger than the plastic ones and as a largish size paddler I appreciate the extra load carrying capacity and stability. On the other hand, the upper river does have a few Class 1 and Class 2 rapids and plastic boats might be better, although I am told one can walk a boat through the rapids to minimise the risk of damage The other issue is cost with the fibreglass boat costing twice as much as a plastic one.
 I have thought of trying a 2 boat solution-i.e.buying a plastic boat for the upper river to Minneapolis and then trading it in on a fibreglasss boat when I get there. I regularly check the website of the store where I intend to buy the boat.and other gear. As far as plastic boats go, they sell Current Design Storms, which was the first boat I owned and which I used on the Hudson River a few years back. Cuurent Design also produce a wonderful looking fibreglass boat which looks as if it would be perfect for me and is the same size as my Paddling Perfection Seabear. I wish I could just take the Seabear with me

Mississippi Facts

The river is about 2,350 miles or 3500 kilometres in length
The narrowest point is about 20 feet just below Lake Itasca
The widest point is about 4 miles (6 kilometres) at Lake Onalaska near La Crosse,Wisconsin
The shallowest point is just below Lake Itasca where it is less than 3 feet deep (although it can drop to less than 6 inches) There are stories of paddlers starting with great fanfare only to have get out and walk within a few metres of the start point. In fact one year a father and son team started at Bemidji, a town 3 days travel down the river because of the lack of water. They made it to New Orleans and it rankled that they had missed the first 80 miles. Next year they returned to Lake Itasca to do the skipped portion!!!
The deepest point is about 200 feet at New Orleans
Elevation above sea level at Lake Itasca is 1475 feet
More than half the total drop of the river occurs in Minnesota
The river drains 41% of continental USA
The river passes through/or forms the boundary of 10 States Minnesota,Wisconsin,Iowa,Illinois.Kentucky,Tennessee,Missouri,Arkansas.Louisiana and Mississippi (Missouri is the only state I haven't previously visited)

Risk Management

With kayaking anywhere in the world there are certain common risks to be identified and dealt with by eliminating or minimising e.g.sunburn,dehydration,hypothermia. In addition every location has its own separate risks,none more so than the Mississippi for a kiwi paddler coming from the relatively benign location that is NZ.I have tried to identify as many of the risks as I can and what action I can take to reduce or eliminate them. It is said that there are old kayakers,and there are bold kayakers,but there are no old, bold kayakers. Two words that I am going to try to keep in mind all the time are "pay attention". For that reason I am not taking an ipod or MP3 player. Not only do I not want to detract from the moment but I don't want something that might make me loose concentration.
So, in no particular order,these are the risks I have identified
1/Deer Ticks. These can give you Lyme disease which I understand is a particularly debilitating illness similar to malaria in that once you get it ,you never entirely loose it. This is where a travelling companion would come in handy to give each other an inspection of those parts of your body that don't readily lend themselves to self examination, similar to the mutual grooming that one sees monkeys in the zoo performing. While with the right companion I am sure this would provide a welcome end to a day's paddling it immediately disqualifies paddling mates such as Charlie and Guy who have volunteered to come along (especially Guy who failed in my hour of need when bitten on a sensitive part by an amorous mussel or crab some years ago). The best way to minimise this risk is to stay out of long grass as much as possible and to make sure to wear full length trousers and socks
2/Barge tows.The river is a major transport artery and north of Baton Rouge to Minneapolis goods are transported by barge. This does not mean one barge. Between St Louis and Minneapolis where the locks operate it means 18 barges tied together (3 wide and 6 deep) pushed by a tug To get throgh the locks the barge tow has to be broken in two of 3x3. Below the locks the barge tows are even bigger (6x7). The issue for kayakers is two fold. Not are you very had to see but the barges have very little manoeuvreability or stopping ability. They can also throw up a decent sized wake The solution is to stay out of the shipping channel as much as possible and to stay on the inside of bends on the river as the channel usually follows the outside of the bend. This gives rise to the next risk
3Wing Dams. These are man made structures that extend from one river bank part way across the river to make the water in the shipping channel move faster and keep it from silting up.There are hundreds of them.. The issue for a kayaker is that depending on the height of the water these dams are either above or possibly just under the surface.If they are out of the water they creates turbulent water and whirlpools of varying size and strength that need to be avoided. If they are just below the surface then there is the danger of plowing into them at a reasonable speed and destroying your boat.
5/Poison Ivy I don't even know what the stuff looks like. I understand there are even poison trees
6/ Snakes. The ones that freak me out the most are the ones that can just drop out of a tree as you pass underneath and the ones that swim in the water.
7/Bears.I don't think they are a problem to the extent they are in Alaska but I gather one should take sensible precautions around food cooking and storage
8/Alligators. I am extremely unlikely to encounter one in the main river despite the feeling I have of it being my destiny to meet with one. I have joked with friends that if my GPS tracking device shows no sign of me having moved for several days it will either mean I am waiting out a storm or it is inside an alligator
10/ Storms. Kayakers I have paddled with in the States seem almost paranoid about getting off the river during a storm because of the possibility of a lightning strike
11/Raccoons I am told they are like Keas in NZ in their cunning and ability to steal food if left unattended. for a moment. having dealt with Greg the Takahe I think I have this one covered
12/Locks. Locking through will be a new experience. There are 29 locks on the river. I am sure that once I have done one or two that I will be confident about the procedure. The main problem is the delay they can create.I understand that while the lock masters are happy to lock through a single kayaker, you are the lowest priority if there is commercial traffic wanting to go through and it is not uncommon to have to wait 2-3 hours for your turn
13/Wolves. I understand wolves are making a come back in several mid western states including Minnesota but they shouldn't really be a problem along the river.
14/Chain of Rocks. This is a man made barrier that stretches right across the river at St Louis. Depending on the water level it is possible to shoot the rapids it creates or to walk a kayak through from the river bank using a length of rope. The alternative is a longish canal with a lot of barges and possible strong head winds that other paddlers have spoken of disparagely
15/Shipping From Baton Rouge south I will encounter large ocean going freighters which can snaek up on an unsuspecting paddler very quietly and quickly.
16/Asian carp-These are an ecological disaster already with the distinct possiblity of getting worse. Originally farmed in Louisiana and Mississppi on the lower river ,they escaped during a flood some years ago. Over the years as they have acclimatised to colder water they have moved northward and have finally reached the Illinois River which connects to the Great Lakes. There is only one dam now between them and the lakes and it is only a  matter of time b'4 they get past this with huge consequences for fishing and water quality.The issue for kayakers is that these fish have a proclivity for launching themselves several feet into the air and as they can weigh up to 100 pounds(not that I have seen any pictured of this size).and have been known to cause serious injury to people in small craft. Google "Asian Carp" and look at the videos to see what I mean. i am not sure what precautions one takes to minimise this risk
17/Humans. Finally while I expect an overwhelmingly friendly reception from the people I encounter and this is the one thing I am looking froward to the most,it is an unfortunate fact of life that there are a few bad people out there (cue banjo music). Initially as I pass through Minnesota and Iowa I will be camping in Department of Conservation type campsites. On the lower river it is preferable to camp on the many spoil islands as opposed to the river banks to be less accessible. Wherever I camp I will try to be as inconspicuous as possible. I might try the old campervan trick of sussing out a campsite at the end of the day,going elsewhere to eat my dinner and returning to the campsite at dark to put up my tent
So there it is,my list of unique risks. Neil would be proud of me. If anyone can think of any risks I have missed please let me know (and provide ways of mitigating or eliminating them)

First post

A few years ago I took part in a 478 kilometre paddle from Auckland to Cape Reinga at the top of New Zealand to raise money for Child Cancer research. It was a very exciting trip (in parts) I described it at the time as comprising hours of boredom interspersed with moments of pure terror. However it did make me realise what I was capable of in terms of long distance paddling both physically and mentally, and created a desire to do more. Since then I have paddled the Hudson River in New York from Albany to Manhatten and circumnavigated Gt Barrier Island as well as countless long day trips. All this has led to a desire to do a really big solo long distance paddle and I have spent a good deal of time over the last few years following the blogs of other long distance paddlers and dreaming of what I might do. Initially I was attracted to the idea of doing the Intra Coastal Water way which runs up the eastern seaboard of the United States from Key West to Maine (and that is still a possiblity depending on how this trip goes). The blog of Margo Pellegrino was one of the first I followed. Other possibilities included circumnavigating the coastline in Florida as a kayak trail had just been established with excellent maps and charts. The Missouri/Mississippi was also considered but eventually I settled on the Mississippi itself as one of the world's classic river journeys.This was reinforced when I discovered that there was some dispute over the exact source of the river. The accepted source is where the river leaves Lake Itasca in northern Minnesota. I initially thought that I would start at the far end of the lake about 6 kilometres away. When I checked it on Google Earth I discovered that a small stream runs into Lake Itasca from the adjoining Elk Lake. For the life of me I couldn't understand why this wasn't the true source of the river and I have since found that there is a minority view that believes it is and I subscribe to it.
So the plan is to launch into Elk Lake which is quite small and  to paddle around the edges to make there are not any streams that run into it from yet another lake (and it looks as if there could be some sort of "puddle") and if so I intend to bushwack my way as far as possible up it.
I fly into Minneapolis on the evening of Tuesday 24 May. This will give me 3 days to buy a boat, gear and food b/4 leaving on the long drive to the lake on Saturday. I envisage the rest of the day will be spent on setting up camp and perhaps a trial paddle around part of the lake.Sunday will then be taken up with the exploration to the true source I have described above.I will set off down the river on Monday which is Memorial Day with the objective of reaching the campsite at Coffee Pot Landing 20 miles away. It will take me 3 days to reach the first town Bemidji I have set myself 10 targets for the trip. The first is to simply get through the wetlands to Bemedji,the second is to cross the lakes that are next,the third is to pass the 300 mile mark which would equal the distance of the trip to Cape Reinga and the fourth is to make 500 miles which I was once told was the minimum distance to be classifed as an expedition.(and coincidentally would find me back in Minneapolis ready to tackle the second part of the river to St Louis with its 29 locks and dams).
I hope that I will be able to update this blog regularly once the trip starts and that you will enjoy readng it. Please mention it  to anyone you think might be interested